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unicorndukeI finished it in March but didn't have the energy to take pictures but I got it out yesterday and got some nice photos. They could have been better but I was working with what I had, which was my phone on a box on the tailgate of my truck, held upright by the handle of a 300ft measuring tape. I really ought to get a phone mount for pictures, I had one but it disappeared in the move.
This fabric is handwoven, from eight cones of yarn I picked up for cheap from Cece's Wool in upstate NY. It is a wool/mohair blend, around worsted weight and was really fun to weave. I did a straight twill and after washing, it produced a beautiful fabric. Final finished fabric was approximately 25 inches wide and 5.5 yards long.
I started sewing the coat in January of last year, I made a mockup out of fuzzy dog blankets, it smelled terrible. I made some adjustments to the pattern, primarily around the shoulder area since it bunched up and then got to cutting. The pattern had interfacing for the front, side, yoke, cuff and collar pieces and I chose a thick canvas to give it some structure. I spent months padstitching them together. Any pieces that didn't get canvas backing, I bought 2 inch wide fusible interfacing and ironed it on to help hold the weave around the edges. I didn't felt the fabric because I liked how it looked after washing. I took basically no pictures of this process.
I used silk taffeta for the lining and did an abysmal job on the double welt pocket on the inside. I practiced, should have practiced more but augh what a pain. I still don't know how those work really. That's why I only did one. I had to handsew certain parts of the coat, my sewing machine could mostly handle the thickness of wool and canvas but it did give up in some places, especially around the collar and other areas. Lots of topstitching but that made it look really good.
i handsewed the buttonholes because there wasn't a chance the sewing machine could do it. I used Vincent Brigg's tutorial again and it worked great. I spent big money on real horn buttons and they look very nice.
Things I wasn't thrilled with: the vent in the back is wonky, I think because of the thickness of the fabric and way it has to be constructed. Vogue's pattern was fully useless on how to sew the vent, I had to find a video filmed on someone's camera where a woman walked through all the flipping and sewing that had to be done.
It is such a warm coat and I was sweating by the time I got all these photos taken yesterday. But coat! It's done!
This fabric is handwoven, from eight cones of yarn I picked up for cheap from Cece's Wool in upstate NY. It is a wool/mohair blend, around worsted weight and was really fun to weave. I did a straight twill and after washing, it produced a beautiful fabric. Final finished fabric was approximately 25 inches wide and 5.5 yards long.
I started sewing the coat in January of last year, I made a mockup out of fuzzy dog blankets, it smelled terrible. I made some adjustments to the pattern, primarily around the shoulder area since it bunched up and then got to cutting. The pattern had interfacing for the front, side, yoke, cuff and collar pieces and I chose a thick canvas to give it some structure. I spent months padstitching them together. Any pieces that didn't get canvas backing, I bought 2 inch wide fusible interfacing and ironed it on to help hold the weave around the edges. I didn't felt the fabric because I liked how it looked after washing. I took basically no pictures of this process.
I used silk taffeta for the lining and did an abysmal job on the double welt pocket on the inside. I practiced, should have practiced more but augh what a pain. I still don't know how those work really. That's why I only did one. I had to handsew certain parts of the coat, my sewing machine could mostly handle the thickness of wool and canvas but it did give up in some places, especially around the collar and other areas. Lots of topstitching but that made it look really good.
i handsewed the buttonholes because there wasn't a chance the sewing machine could do it. I used Vincent Brigg's tutorial again and it worked great. I spent big money on real horn buttons and they look very nice.
Things I wasn't thrilled with: the vent in the back is wonky, I think because of the thickness of the fabric and way it has to be constructed. Vogue's pattern was fully useless on how to sew the vent, I had to find a video filmed on someone's camera where a woman walked through all the flipping and sewing that had to be done.
It is such a warm coat and I was sweating by the time I got all these photos taken yesterday. But coat! It's done!
